A Homage To My Winter Home
From Sigiriya back home to Kabalan. Through mountains and endless, lush green surroundings in Sri Lanka. Told by Jennifer Kivinen
One of the biggest realisations of this trip is that I always want to push my limits to know where they are. The ironic thing is I never really get there because I’m too afraid to give in. This is probably my biggest battle and fear, not only in cycling but in life. To find the limits, accept and be humble towards them. To celebrate the strength and courage of saying the words “I’m done” out loud. What’s the worst that can happen? This time it was a bruised ego for a second, demounting my wheels and paying four dollars for a one-hour tuk-tuk drive.
An introduction to the tropics
It all started in 2017 when I was brought to a tropical island outside of India. I fell completely in love. In love with the warmhearted people and the culture. The mountains and endless green, lush nature. The ocean and eventually surfing. Since then,I’ve been back six times. I’ve kept my two pretty different lives and sports in flow with the seasons but also separate from each other. Cycling during the summer in Stockholm and the rest of Europe and surfing in the winter in Sri Lanka. I always thought cycling here would be mental. Suicidal even. Until now - oh, I couldn’t be more wrong.
Creating an endless cycling season
There was something about me not feeling completely ready to end the cycling season back home in Stockholm and just wanting it to seamlessly continue throughout the year while still pursuing my Sri Lankan winter. This feeling of bringing another very big part of myself to the island and adding another layer to my Sri Lankan life felt very beautiful. To see if I was able to explore the island with new fresh eyes after spending so much time down south with the surfers, eating colourful bowls, drinking great coffee and taking my scooter everywhere every day. Being stuck in the same habits although they’re habits I love.
I decided to embark on my very first bikepacking trip for the January Resolution Challenge. Challenging myself at the start of the new year. Four optimistically planned days packed with riding. From Sigiriya in the middle of the island and ending back home in Kabalana on the south coast. The plan was a total of 531 km and 7800 hm. In reality, I managed 465 km and 5525 hm. I admit my optimism and naivety took over. After all, it was only the first time on the bike. A true blessing and curse.
On optimistic planning and reality
Day one was one of the toughest days on the saddle ever. After destroying my stomach with painkillers for my back pain, I had trouble eating properly for five days. I wasn't even sure I was going to be able to execute the trip. I never said those words out loud and always continued as planned. Right up until the first day. After the first pedal stroke, I felt lactic acid in my legs like never before. I kept struggling the whole day. Almost hyperventilating on the climbs and feeling really low on energy. I hit rock bottom mentally and physically. After a long climb, and before the biggest of the day, I decided to surrender and find the easiest way possible to get to the Airbnb, which was 21 km away. I had 45 minutes before the sun would start setting, and there was no way I could manage climbing 1000 hm more.
Finding lessons in challenges
Every cycling day after that came with a lesson. Either the route had to be readjusted due to the crazy amount of height meters or I got lost and would end up spending 1,5 hours getting back on track. Note: I’ve never been great with navigation. Or, an Airbnb host would postpone our departure by talking for too long. You never know what the day will bring, and that’s a big part of the adventure. Embracing the unknown and unexpected. Having zero expectations and being willing to accept whatever comes up. Finding the lessons in the challenges. Not craving more of the pleasures and finally accepting the pain. It will all go away, eventually.
After riding on some of the most beautiful and scenic routes ever, I wish everyone could experience this. The magical and untouched locations. Instead of being perceived as an annoying object on the road, you are the highlight of the day for the people you meet. That’s beautiful. That’s Sri Lanka for me.
